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Details of Grant 

EPSRC Reference: GR/J23976/01
Title: WAVE KINEMATICS IN AN EXTREME 3-D SEA (OCE 72)
Principal Investigator: Swan, Professor C
Other Investigators:
Researcher Co-Investigators:
Project Partners:
Department: Civil & Environmental Engineering
Organisation: Imperial College London
Scheme: Standard Research (Pre-FEC)
Starts: 01 February 1994 Ends: 31 January 1996 Value (£): 91,571
EPSRC Research Topic Classifications:
Condensed Matter Physics
EPSRC Industrial Sector Classifications:
Energy
Related Grants:
Panel History:  
Summary on Grant Application Form
1. To investigate the crest elevation and the kinematics in an extreme 3 D sea. 2. To determine the influence of directionality on the non linearity of a wave form, and to assess the effectiveness of the various stretching techniques. 3. To investigate the bound waves and the resulting return flow , and to assess the applicability of the linear solutions beneath trough level. 4. To formulate a new analytical/numerical solution for extreme 3 D wave groups. (1) Experimental study. The development of apparatus and the preliminary observations will be carried out in the small wave basin at Imperial College. Once this apparatus is tried and tested, the laser equipment, the traverse mechanism, and the sampling hardware will be transported to the wave basin at Edinburgh University. This facility is equipped with 75 individual wave paddles, and can generate a wide range of sea states. (2) Analytical modelling. This will be based on the fundamental interation of wave components first described by Longuet Higgins (1960). This approach will allow the investigation of wave components up to a third order of wave steepness, and will include the resonant interactions which are knownt to occur in a 3D sea state. (3) Numerical modelling. This will be based on a double Fourier series expansion in space and time, so that the focusing of wave energy (appropriate to the formation of the largest waves) can be identified. This approahc provides a full description of both the water surface elevation and the underlying kinematics.
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Organisation Website: http://www.imperial.ac.uk